Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Wine Lesson #4: The Beauty And Taste Of Pinot Noir (Part 2/2)

LESSON #4: THE BEAUTY AND TASTE OF PINOT NOIR (PART 2/2)

Click here to read Part 1

Pinot NoirSo why is Pinot Noir so difficult to deal with?

For starters, the grape's exceptionally thin skin provide little defense against rot and other diseases. Then its unstable genetic qualities often result in offspring bearing fruit that is nothing like the parents'. It loves cold climates but it leafs early in the season exposing itself to the threat of (Spring) frosts.

Pinot also attracts the wrong sorts of company - sharpshooter leafhopper for example which carries the dangerous Pierce's disease that can destroy hectares of a vineyard.

Even when the struggles in the vineyards are over and the harvest brings in some good ripe grapes, treachery still lurks. Packed with 18 amino acids, Pinot Noir tends to ferment in violent fashion, boiling over for no reason at all.

A quick and hot fermentation doesn't provide enough time for color and phenolics to be transferred (extracted) from the thin skins to the juice.

There are many more hazards - prone to acetification for example, which turns wine into vinegar - too many to mention, but I'm sure you get the general idea by now.

A good bottle of Pinot Noir is really a rare combination of good climate, very good luck and mastery in wine making.

All we need now is some lucky bloke who sits on a cheap plot of land on a south-facing slope in the golden strip of Burgundy called Cote d'Or who is either myopic enough or has the insane tenacity to stick to growing Pinots and make great red wines, then we have a prayer of a chance to buy good Pinot Noir for less than US$50 a bottle.

Of course, we have to keep Robert Parker from learning about his existence, and that takes more than luck and tenacity.

And would you believe it - Pinot Noir is the most "healthy" of wine, offering 3 to 10 times more resveratrol than Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and other reds, especially if it comes from harsh climates like Burgundy?


You'll have to excuse me now. My bottle of Chambolle-Musigny is properly aired for me to take a sip out of the decanter. Talk to you later!

Next lesson: Champagne and Sparkling wine

Click here to read previous Wine Lessons

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Source: Wine Lesson #4: The Beauty And Taste Of Pinot Noir (Part 2/2)

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